New England, Volume 21 Number 4 October, 2010

New England

Autumn, and it’s time to embark on a New England leafing excursion par excellence. While drinking in fall colors, you can also take in the offerings of some of the most venerable — and important  — art collections in the country. Welcome to our special New England museums issue! Although our fantasy trek takes you all the way from Maine to Rhode Island  — by way of Massachusetts  — you’ll want to base your leaf-peeping on round-about road trips of your own design.

MAINE
Let’s start at The Portland Museum of Art, the largest and oldest museum in Maine, sited in the gorgeous, rough-hewn landscape of the one-time capital of our 23rd state. Originally built in 1882, the museum has seen major renovations through the years, most notably an $8-million makeover of one wing (originally built to house a gift of 17 Winslow Homers) in 1982 by I. M. Pei & PartnersHenry Nichols Cobb, which gives the museum its now familiar postmodern face. Currently on view are two exhibitions examining the genre of trompe l’oeil, one historical: John Haberle: American Master of Illusion, through December 12; the other contemporary: False Documents and Other Illusions, October 30-January 2. For a suitably still-life-like dinner along your way, we think you’ll love the award-winning Fore Street Restaurant nearby. The museum staff tells us they do!

On to Brunswick, where you’ll find the Bowdoin College Museum of Art — small, but a remarkably important campus star. Originally designed in the 19th century by the famed firm of McKim, Mead and White, major renovations by architects Machado and Silvetti in 2007 increased its ability to accommodate the ever-expanding collection. A rotating selection of post-war works by Michael Mazur, Alex Katz, Gerhard Richter… and more… are on display through the fall. And, while you’re here, enjoy one of Maine’s most historic towns. Founded some 350 years ago, it’s steeped in romance and gilded by handsome mansions — be they Greek, Federal Revival, or Italianate. This is where Harriet Beecher Stowe wrote Uncle Tom’s Cabin, while her husband taught at Bowdoin.

The National Trust for Historic Preservation has named our next destination “one of America’s Most Distinctive” treasures, and Rockland’s own treasure is the Farnsworth Museum. It has an amazing permanent collection of paintings, photographs and modern sculpture (including wonderful works by native Louise Nevelson), as well as a center devoted to the Wyeth family. Currently showing: their first annual “Arnold Newman Prize Winner” exhibition, Emily Schiffer: Cheyenne River through January 16.

Traveling south to Kennebunk Beach, you shouldn’t bypass the White Barn Inn, a Relais Gourmand property. The celebrated inn was voted one of the top 20 romantic hideaways in America and the ambiance of  the beautiful restaurant, occupying two restored barns, is legendary. It’s a great base, too, for an antiquing excursion in bountiful Kennebunkport.

NEW HAMPSHIRE
Head with us now to Hanover, New Hampshire, where the must-visit is Dartmouth College’s Hood Museum of Art, housing more than 65,000 works of art from the most diverse cultures, with an award-winning design (Charles Moore and Chad Floyd, 1985) that befits the stellar collection and important changing exhibitions. Upcoming: Frank Stella’s Irregular Polygons, through March 13; and don’t miss Jose Clemente Orozco’s fresco mural, The Epic of American Civilization, painted in nearby Baker Library, 1932-34.

The New England legend nearby is Twin Farms, Vermont, perhaps the most luxurious country getaway in all of the 50 states!  It’s a lovely estate — with gracious accommodations  — that was once the country retreat of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson. You’ll enjoy wonderful examples of exquisite contemporary and folk art installed throughout.

VERMONT
Now that you’ve arrived royally in Vermont, take time to visit Shelburne and the beloved Shelburne Museum. Thirty-nine spaces (including an old schoolhouse and a steamship) make up the galleries, which house everything from rare quilts to 19th-century automated mannequins and contemporary art. Our favorite: Kalkin House (2001), an inventive structure by architect Adam Kalkin and renowned interior designer Albert Hadley. They used three shipping containers to define the interior two-story space, fashioning the outer shell from a piece of metal used for building warehouses — it now serves as exhibition space for contemporary design. Shelburne is a bit out of the way, so take the opportunity to head north from here to Burlington, where you’ll find Potters Yard, famous for their stoneware made on the premises  — which consists of a series of shops housed in historic buildings  — plus much more. Hang out with the locals at favorite watering hole, Leunig’s Bistro. It has a Parisian café ambiance, and chef/owner Donnelle Collins serves a divine breakfast. If you detour to southwest Vermont, tour the picturesque village of Manchester, and have dinner at The Reluctant Panther Inn. It’s also a boutique hotel, and is close enough to NY and Boston to serve as a home base for side trips. Are the Green Mountains on your itinerary? Stay at The Inn at Sawmill Farm in West Dover, with beautiful grounds spread over 20 acres in the foothills.

MASSACHUSETTS
Of course, the lion’s share of arts venues will be found in Massachusetts, so plan accordingly. MASS MoCA, located in North Adams in a building that was once a textile mill and then an electric company, was transformed in 1999 by architects Simeon Bruner and David Childs into the arts powerhouse it is today. Currently on exhibit is Leonard Nimoy’s (who originally trained as a photographer at UCLA under Robert Heineken) Secret Selves, through January. You can’t stay any closer to MASS MoCA than The Porches; in fact, some of MASS MoCA’s art manages to make its way across the street to infiltrate the inn, so be sure to ask about the latest installations; meanwhile, its 47 rooms of “retro-edgy, industrial granny chic” ambiance are funky and fun. MASS MoCA, the grand Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute (The Clark) and Williams College Museum of Art (WCMA) — the latter two both in Williamstown — complete a trio of significant art museums set in the beautiful Berkshires. At The Clark, in 2008, noted architect Tadao Ando completed the Stone Hill Center, a 32,000-square-foot building on a nearby wooded hillside, adding exhibition space plus the Williamstown Art Conservation Center — the largest regional conservation facility in the country. If you hurry, you can catch a stunning installation in the fabulous new galleries by Spanish sculptor Juan Munoz (through October 17). For an authentic taste of the Berkshires, we recommend the unpretentious Mezze Bistro & Bar, very recently moved to its new digs on three bucolic acres overlooking Sheep Hill (aptly named!). The ultimate in Berkshires luxury is a stay at Wheatleigh Hotel, in Lenox, with its 22 acres of parkland and gardens designed by no less than Frederick Law Olmstead. Fashioned in 1893 in the traditional, grand French country-chateau style, Wheatleigh has been brought up to date to create one of the most luxurious small hotels in the world. Only 19 suites and guest rooms, but they set a standard — it’s an exquisite combination of antique and architect-designed furnishings — plus original contemporary art.  All of this comes at a price, but if you’re looking for the ne plus ultra of New England stays, this is it. Another Berkshires luxury hotel, Blantyre, is an English Tudor-style Relais & Chateux beauty, built in 1902. Although once the victim of abandonment and neglect, the present owners (since the 1980s) have worked hard to fashion an amazing “Gilded Age” experience for guests.
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[/donotprint]In the upscale neighborhood of Lincoln, find DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park, set in 35 acres of gorgeous woods and cultivated lawns with constantly changing outdoor exhibitions of up to 75 artworks at any given time. If it’s too chilly, go inside to view one of the many cutting-edge contemporary shows, such as Martha Friedman’s Rubbers (through January 9).

At the just-reopened Addison Gallery of American Art (Phillips Academy, Andover), you’ll find the museum’s 1931 Charles Platt building completely restored, plus a stunning new wing by Centerbrook Architects. The focus here is important American art, and the collection ranges from the 18th century to the present. The current makeover celebration includes a huge permanent collection show (over 300 works); we also look forward to the Sheila Hicks retrospective opening November 8.

If you like the idea of participating in an art exhibition, head to Tufts University Art Gallery (in Medford) for J. Morgan Puett and Mark Dion’s Renovating Walden, until November 14. This extensive installation employs fascinatingly atypical — and thorough — means of exploring Henry David Thoreau’s Walden. The centerpiece is a stage-set enlivened by a program of conversations that are open to the public with members of the Tufts faculty. Join us in the parlor, won’t you?

The Davis Museum and Cultural Center at Wellesley College (Wellesley), which holds the distinction of being the first North American building to be designed by Rafael Moneo (1993), has an outstanding collection, with recent additions by such disparate talents as Yinka Shonibare and Liliana Porter. Be sure to stroll at least part of the 500-acres of campus on the shores of Lake Waban, map in hand, to find the in situ sculpture throughout.

No New England leafing expedition would be complete without a trip to the Norman Rockwell Museum in Stockbridge, one of the top-rated, single-artist museums in America. Through October, see Rockwell and the Movies — paintings, posters, lobby cards, and original portraits of movie stars — appropriately, as the museum’s two main patrons are Steven Spielberg and George Lucas![donotprint]

[/donotprint]All that fresh New England air hasn’t perked your appetite? See LUSCIOUS: Paintings by Emily Eveleth, at Smith College Museum of Art (SCMA) in Northampton through October 24, featuring the artist’s mouthwatering doughnuts; and Sugar by Maria Magdalena Campos-Pons, an installation examining the Cuban industry (through January 2). SCMA has been part of the Brown Fine Arts Center since the Center’s spectacular renovation in 2003 (Polshek Partners), which now includes the art department and Hillyer Art Library.

Through November 14, see young MacArthur prizewinner Anna Schuleit’s massive (three-stories), upside-down face, painted on the façade of the Fine Arts Center at the University of Massachusetts-Amherst. Its reflection appears right-side-up in a pond, with the inverted image producing a portrait whose identity is a mystery — Just a Rumor, as its title proclaims.

On to the mother lode that is Boston, where we’ll start at The Harvard Art Museums — currently on display in the Arthur M. Sackler Museum are several exhibitions (based on specific themes) from the various museums’ permanent holdings — designed to mark time as the new facilities by the renowned Renzo Piano get underway. We look forward to 2013, when the redesigned building at 32 Quincy Street will bring together the three distinctive museums — the Fogg, Busch-Reisinger, and Arthur M. Sackler — into one space, allowing greater public access to these important collections. For refreshment near Harvard Square, find Ten Tables in Cambridge, a romantic little nook. Or you can hang with the literati — and chef Jody Adams - she’s a wonder — at Upstairs on the Square. Try to nab one of the plush purple banquettes and enjoy the Klimt-inspired decor.

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[/donotprint]If you only have time for one major museum in Boston this year, make it The Museum of Fine Arts. It’s ordinarily top of any itinerary, but this year a $345-million wing and courtyard by Sir Norman Foster opens on November 20 with all the ballyhoo it deserves. The garden courtyard is being transformed under a round glass enclosure, affording year-round access; and landscape architects Gustafson Guthrie Nichol have redesigned the entrances, gardens, access roads, and interior courtyards.

Another all-day excursion is the ICA Boston — a must-visit since the new building was finished one year ago by architects Diller Scofidio+Renfro. Not to take away from the up-to-the minute exhibitions, but the building itself offers many joys to be discovered. Our favorite is the Poss Family Mediatheque room, whose walls slant downward towards the water, offering perspective sans horizon line; others rave about the 140-square-foot, glass-walled elevator with views of the harbor on one side, and floors passing by on the other (take a deep breath!).

A much-beloved institution of art devotees everywhere, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum was built in 1903 by the Boston philanthropist to share her collection — and her vision of collecting — with the world. The splendid palazzo, Fenway Court, was designed to resemble a 15th-century Venetian palace. When Gardner died in 1924, she left strict orders that nothing in the gallery was to be changed, added, or removed. She did not foresee (nor, obviously, did anyone) that thieves would eventually steal 12 paintings with a combined value of over $100 million — including a magnificent Vermeer, and Rembrandt’s only seascape. Since 1990, the stolen works’ labels have remained on the walls, a poignant reminder of the missing masterpieces. But, meanwhile, The Gardner flourishes, with its truly splendid collection and adventuresome, cutting-edge public programs.

Finally, The List Center for the Visual Arts, MIT, designed by I. M. Pei (an alum) in 1985, includes public works by heavy hitters such as Kenneth Noland and Richard Fleischner. For the fall: Frances Stark. This could become a gimick [sic]…, the first U.S. museum survey for the L.A. artist/writer is on exhibit October 22 through January 2.

CONNECTICUT
If you save lovely Connecticut for one of your last excursions, visit The Wadsworth Athenaeum in Hartford, the oldest public art museum in America; in fact, it’s home to the first Dalí, Caravaggio, and Miró acquisitions in the nation. Though the focus is on changing exhibitions from their permanent collections, the exception is their pioneering MATRIX series, featuring “sometimes challenging” art and serving as a career launcher for names that we now know as venerable veterans — Jonathan Borofsky, Carrie Mae Weems, Barbara Kruger and many more — had their first solo museum exhibitions here.

If, like us, you tend to cringe when you hear accommodations described as “individually themed,” prepare to open your mind. Each cottage at the amazing Winvian Resort is, yes, themed — but we wish we could afford to try them all! Some interiors may sound extreme — an actual beaver’s dam is suspended over the bed in the Beaver Lodge — but trust us, they work (although the “Helicopter Suite” is a bit too Elvis for us). Winvian is very tucked away in the northwest corner of Connecticut (in Litchfield Hills near Morris), but great dining at the resort is not a problem with chefs Chris Eddy and Gilles Ballay minding the kitchen.[donotprint]

[/donotprint]Located in New Canaan is a modern art treasure we regard as a once-in-a-lifetime experience: The Philip Johnson Glass House, an ARTExpress top destination choice for many years. The guided tour, which includes all buildings and sculptures, must be booked in advance, so call the The Glass House Visitor Center, 203-594-9884 (through the end of November.) Right now, the Brick House is closed for renovation, but your tour package includes a peek at ongoing work behind-the-scenes. Be sure to visit their website to cast your vote: “Which would you rather live in — the Glass House or the Farnsworth House (the glass house by Mies van der Rohe)?” — a hilarious “Modernism Title Match.” The Glass House staff recommends many fine restaurants located nearby, among them Cava Wine Bar & Restaurant, and Gates Restaurant & Bar.

Though it’s not in Connecticut, you must sneak across the border into New York for a stay at Bedford Post Inn, the much-lauded B&B/yoga retreat of Richard Gere and Cary Lowell. It exudes elegance, and the food at Farmhouse (the formal dining room) is a transportive experience. The inn only has 8 rooms, so you must book far ahead. Dining reservations for The Farmhouse, as well as the more casual restaurant, The Barn, can be made up to two months in advance.[donotprint]

[/donotprint]If you haven’t seen architect Charles Mark Hay’s 2004 renovations of the Aldrich Contemporary Art Museum in Ridgefield, visit the original building first (in use as a store from 1783-1883 — thus the nickname “Old Hundred”); then tour the new building’s twelve galleries. Currently on view: Rackstraw Downes: Under the Westside Highway, a massive, three-part painting plus the preparatory work (through January 2). You can also interact with one of architect Fritz Haeg’s famed Edible Estates gardening projects, located on the front lawn.

For shopping in Connecticut, head for Old Greenwich, a neighborhood graced with vintage architecture, a great waterfront view and charming shops. Greenwich Avenue is the main center for upscale shopping, but be aware that “the ave” becomes a teenage hangout on Friday nights. For dinner, we like Westport’s LeFarm, presided over by chef Bill Taibe, a leader in the RSA (Restaurant Supported Agriculture) movement. His goal is to support local Connecticut farmers and the superb ingredients they provide. Also in Westport, Dressing Room — A Home Grown Restaurant, the brainchild of renowned chef Michel Nischan and the late Paul Newman, who wanted to create a sustainable, friendly, neighborhood place for fine food — which it certainly is! Find it adjacent to the Westport Country Playhouse (hence the name).

In New Haven, you may want to visit the Yale University Art Gallery, but as renovations are ongoing, plan your visit to know which collections are available. While there, don’t miss the elegant Yale Center for British Art, founded by Paul Mellon (1929) and now home to more British art to be found anywhere other than Britain! A terrific show now on view, The Independent Eye: Contemporary British Art from the Collection of Samuel and Gabrielle Lurie, examines painters who came of age in the 1960s — R.B. Kitaj, John Hoyland, Patrick Caulfield, and more (through January 2).

RHODE ISLAND
At last we come to Rhode Island, home to Providence’s Rhode Island School of Design, almost always ranked the top art/design school in the country. RISDI’s museum is renowned for its permanent collections (don’t miss the Gorham silver) — as well as the rotating contemporary exhibitions. Through January 9: Lynda Benglis, offering up 40 years worth of work by the renowned sculptor. For a nearby lunch, a favorite of the locals, CAV, provides seasonal, contemporary fare in an eclectic atmosphere. We were a little confused, as the décor is decidedly African and there was nothing African on the menu, but were won over by the lobster bisque.

Beautiful Newport’s Art Museum is a National Historic Landmark and its architecture is an over-the-top style mash-up — one building is (relatively rare) American Stick Style courtesy Richard Morris Hunt, 1864; the other American Renaissance by William Adam Delano, 1920, and home to some outstanding contemporary art to boot, such as Dale Chihuly, Howard Ben Tre and more. For a seafood lunch or dinner, nobody will prepare it better for you than the acclaimed Scales & Shells in Newport — in fact, it’s all they do. They’ve recently added a more formal, upstairs dining room. A must for fish aficionados!

Finally, no New England itinerary is complete without seeing the mansions of Newport. They once bore sparkling witness to luxurious lives and are now museums in and of themselves. Their meticulous restoration and preservation by The Preservation Society of Newport County makes for a jaw-dropping tour — don’t miss it! For accommodations, the Chanler at Cliff Walk on Memorial Boulevard is luxurious, with stunning ocean views. Young Thomas Duffy is executive chef at the Spiced Pear Restaurant — try to book an evening at the chef’s table — a fine dining experience even if you’re not staying at the Chanler. If you find yourself shy of delightful New England destinations now, just let us know — we have just the secret spot for a romantic tryst!!

Focus New England

HOTELS, INNS, RESTAURANTS
Maine

White Barn Inn, 37 Beach Avenue, Kennebunk Beach, Tel. 207-967-2321, whitebarninn.com. Romantic without being fussy; book a waterfront cottage complete with fireplace.  Their restaurant is Forbes 5-Star rated.

Camden Harbor Inn, 83 Bayview Street, Camden, Tel. 800-236-4266, camdenharbourinn.com.  Although the inn has been around since 1874, do not expect yet another “sea captain’s home.”  Your hosts hail from the Netherlands, and they have updated their interiors with beautiful European touches throughout.   We love the clean, contemporary interiors as much as the 180-degree panoramic views of Camden Harbor.  Natalie’s, their award-winning restaurant, offers must-try variations on the ubiquitous Maine lobster.

Uncle Billy’s Resto-Bar, 653 Congress Street, Portland, Tel. 207-761-5930.  The décor is kitsch (but fun kitsch, not overly-conscious kitsch). The dishes are delicious in a very Belgian way.  Cash only.[pay]

Fore Street Restaurant, 288 Fore Street, Portland, Tel. 207-775-2717, forestreet.biz.  Part of a “family” of restaurants owned by two chef-partners, Sam Hayward and Dana Street, all located in Portland.  Acclaimed by both Gourmet and the James Beard Foundation, the emphasis is on local/fresh.  Save room for the gelati, made on the premises.

Also recommended by The Portland Museum of Art staff: 555, Street & Company, Hugo’s, and Local 188.

New Hampshire
Moutainview Grand Resort, Mountain View Road, Whitefield, Tel. 866-484-3843, mountainviewgrand.com. Top-rated spa (by Conde Naste Traveler) and panoramic mountain views.  Good for families or large groups, as the rates are quite reasonable, but be warned: there’s only one elevator, and the staff have to be called if you need to access it.

Omni Mount Washington Resort, 302, Bretton Woods, Tel. 603-278-1000, omnihotels.com.  One of the most luxurious hotels of its day (1902), its Spanish Renaissance-style grandeur still shines.   For something more intimate, the nearby Omni Bretton Arms Inn, 173 Mount Washington Road, Tel. 603-278-3000 is our pick for an upscale country lodge-style experience.

Hanover Street Chophouse, 149 Hanover Street, Manchester, Tel. 603-644-2467 (CHOP), hanoverstreetchophouse.  Manhattan-style steakhouse that is understated and elegant.  On the “sides” menu, find the lobster mac-and-cheese — it’s sublime.

Bailiwick’s Fine Restaurant, Thayer’s Inn
, 111 Main Street, Littleton, Tel. 603-444-7717, bailiwicksfinerestaurant.com.  Our great-grandparents honeymooned at the inn, built in 1850, where the sloping floors and original steam pipes are now proudly proclaimed as features.  Find the basement restaurant if you’re leafing in the White Mountains area — a nice spot for drinks or dinner in a very small town.  The martini menu may be trying a little hard (80 varieties!), but we enjoyed the food (and apple martini) very much.

Vermont
Twin Farms, Barnard, Tel. 800-894-6327, twinfarms.com.  Once the retreat of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson (ask for “Red’s Room”),  all of Twin Farms’ exteriors exude traditional country charm that you might expect, but the interiors are why we stay. From the “Meadow Cottage” (with Morrocan-inspired touches) to the ultra contemporary “Studio,” the individually appointed visions of the late Jed Johnson and Thad Hayes shine — and the designers did not scrimp on the art found throughout.

The Inn at Sawmill Farm,   Rooms, suites and cottages, located throughout 6 separate “houses” set on beautiful grounds, with very reasonable rates.  The inn’s chef, Brill Williams, is also the owner, and  dinner is an event; be sure to have dessert as it’s bound to be based on a recipe from Williams’ mom, and may be the highlight!

The Reluctant Panther Inn, 17-39 West Road, Manchester Village, Tel. 802-362-2568 or 800-822-2331, reluctantpanther.com. The Panther’s recent renovations (the main building was destroyed by fire in 2005) are winning it accolades. Contemporary with subtle Colonial touches make for a refreshing stay.

Main Street Grill & Bar (NECI), 118 Main Street, Montpelier, Tel. 802-223-3188, necidining.com.  One of the production labs for the acclaimed New England Culinary Institute.  You’ll find yourself rooting for the “kids” as they work the kitchen to please you with their skills — up front, the servers tend to be a bit nervous, but we had a great time (and meal!).

Leunig’s Bistro, 115 Church Street, Burlington, Tel. 802-863-3759, leunigsbistro.com.  A beloved institution by Burlington locals since 1980. Parisian café ambiance, and a member of the Vermont Fresh Network. Try to snag a table outside, weather permitting.

The Parker House Inn & Restaurant, 792 Quechee Main Street, Tel. 800-295-6077, theparkerhouseinn.com. Set in a 19th century French Gothic building, Parker House is a nice restaurant and cozy (only 8 rooms) inn, owned by award-winning chef Adam La Noue-Adler, with close proximity to New Hampshire’s Dartmouth campus.

Massachusetts
White Elephant Hotel, Nantucket Island, Tel. 800-445-6574 or 508-228-2500, whiteelephanthotel.com.  Consistently voted as one of the great places to stay in all of New England by just about everyone.  Makes for a wonderful waterside stay, so if you take a break from leaf-peeping, make it here.

The Porches Inn, 231 River Street, North Adams, Tel. 413-644-0400, porches.com.  We love the color schemes, not to mention the art installations, courtesy of MASS MoCA, located across the street.

Wheatleigh Hotel, Hawthorne Road, Lenox, Tel. 413-637-0610, wheatleigh.com.  Ultimate French chateau luxury set in the Berkshires.

Blantyre, 16 Blantyre Road, Lenox, Tel. 413-637-3556, blantyre.com. Another gorgeous Berkshires hotel, this one Tudor style.

Mezze Bistro & Bar, 777 Cold Spring Road (Routes 7&2), Williamstown (Berkshires), Tel. 413-458-0123, mezzerestaurant.com.  A change of pace from standard New England fare, with all menu items grown in the Berkshires.  Dinner only.

Boston Proper
Our favorites right now include Market by Jean-Georges (W Boston), 100 Stuart St., Tel. 617-310-6790, marketbyjgboston.com;  Coppa, 253 Shawmut Ave. Tel. 617-391-0902, coppaboston.com: No reservations, so plan to wait; Sensing, 3 Battery Wharf, Tel. 617-994-9001, sensingrestaurant.com: Contemporary French.

In Cambridge, near Harvard Square: Ten Tables, 597 Centre Street, Tel. 617-524-8810, tentables.net: A romantic nook; Rialto, One Bennett Street, Tel. 617-661-5050, rialto-restaurant.com: Described by chef Jody Adams as “food (she) loves to eat”; Upstairs on the Square, 91 Winthrop Street, Tel. 617-864-1933, upstairsonthesquare.com: The Vegetarian Tasting Menu is highly recommended, even if you’re an omnivore.

Connecticut
Winvian Resort, 155 Alain White Road, Morris, Tel. 860-567-9600, winvian.com.  Though this amazing resort sits on 113 acres, only 38 guests are allowed on the premises at any given time, so it’s a true get-away.  Takes whimsical to the radical extreme, and we love it.

Bedford Post Inn, 954 Old Post Road, Bedford, NY, 914-234-7800, bedfordpostinn.com.  Worth crossing the border to NY for — and worth the accolades it’s receiving.  Reservations a must.

Le Farm, 256 Post Rd. E, Westport, Tel. 203-557-3701, lefarmwestport.com.  Lunch is served Wed.-Fri., dinner Tues.-Sat.

Dressing Room, A Home Grown Restaurant, 27 Powers Court, Westport, Tel. 203-226-1114, dressinghomegrown.com.  Next door to the Westport Country Playhouse, but open through the non-show season.  Weekend brunch available Sat. and Sun.

Rhode Island
The Chanler at Cliff Walk, 117 Memorial Boulevard, Newport, Tel. 401-847-1300, thechanler.com.  An enchanting seaside respite.

Ocean House, 1 Bluff Avenue, Watch Hill, Tel. 401-584-7000, oceanhouseri.com.  Reopened this summer following a $140 million reconstruction, the Ocean House was designed to bring the Golden Era of the beach resort to mind.  The interiors are upscale, but toned-down “beachy,” and touches such as the Lily Pulitzer-styled uniforms for the wait staff add to a fun stay.

CAV, 14 Imperial Place, Providence, Tel. 401-751-9164, cavrestaurant.com.  A favorite with the locals; serving lunch and dinner.

Scales & Shells, 527 Thames Street, Newport, Tel. 401-846-3474 (FISH), scalesandshells.com.  You’re in New England — eat some seafood!  They’ve recently added a more formal dining room, Upscales, to their historic building.  Lunch and dinner.

MUSEUMS
Maine
Portland Museum of Art, Seven Congress Square, Portland, Tel. 207-775-6148, portlandmuseum.org.  Tues., Weds., Thurs., Sat., Sun. 10-5; Fri. 10-9.

Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 9400 College Station, Brunswick, Tel. 207-725-3275, bowdoin.edu/art-museum.  Tues.- Sat. 10-5; Thurs. evenings to 8:30 PM; Sun. 1-5 PM; closed Mon.

Colby College Art Museum, 5600 Mayflower Hill, Waterville,  Tel. 207-859-5600, Colby.edu/academics_cs/museum.  Important collections include Richard Serra (works on paper), Alex Katz, Terry Winters, John Marin and more.  Tues.–Sat. 10-5; Sun. 12–5; closed Mon.

Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum Street, Rockland, ME, Tel. 207-596-6457, farnsworthmuseum.org.  May 15-Nov. 1, open daily 10–5; Weds. 10-8 (from 5-8 free admission); First Fridays (June-Oct.) 10–8 PM (from 5-8 free admission).  Winter hours: Nov. 2-May 14: Weds.-Sun., 10-5; closed Mon.-Tues.

New Hampshire
Hood Museum of Art at Dartmouth, Hanover, Tel. 603-646-2808, hoodmuseum.dartmouth.edu. Tues.- Sat. 10-5; Weds. 10-9; Sun. 12 noon-5; closed Mon.

Vermont
Shelburne Museum, 6000 Shelburne Road, Shelburne, Tel. 802-985-3346, shelburnemuseum.org. Open daily 10-5 through Oct. 24.

Robert Hull Fleming Museum of Art (University of Vermont), 61 Colchester Avenue, Burlington, Tel. 802-656-2090, uvm.edu/~fleming.  Another creation of architects McKim, Mead and White. Be sure to stroll through the original marble courtyard, which now resides exquisitely indoors. Currently on view, Tom Golden’s collection of works by Christo and Jeanne-Claude, through December 18.
Tues., Thurs., Fri. 9-4; Weds. 9-8 PM; Sat.-Sun. 1-5; closed Mon.

Massachusetts
MFA Boston, 65 Huntington Avenue, Boston, Tel. 617-267-9300, mfa.org.  Mon.- Tues. 10-4:45; Weds.-Fri.
10-9:45 PM; Sat.-Sun. 10-4:45.  There are some planned closures, call ahead or check the website.

ICA Boston, 100 Northern Avenue, Boston, Tel. 617-478-3100, icaboston.org.  Tues.- Weds. 10-5; Thurs.-Fri. 10-9 PM; Sat.-Sun. 10-5; closed Mon.

MASS MoCA, 87 Marshall Street, North Adams, Tel. 413-662-2111, massmoca.org.  Open daily 11-4, closed Tues. Check the website for tour days and times.

Williams College Museum of Art, 15 Lawrence Hall Drive, Williamstown, Tel. 413-597-2429, wcma.org.  Tues.-Sat. 10-5; Sun. 1-5.

Sterling & Francine Clark Art Institute, 225 South Street, Williamstown, Tel. 413-458-2303, clarkart.edu.  Tues.-Sun. 10-5.

DeCordova Museum & Sculpture Park, 51 Sandy Pond Road, Lincoln, Tel. 781-259-8355, decordova.org.  Picnics and pets (on leash) are welcome amongst the outdoor installations.  Admission is accepted at the Visitor Station for both the Park and Museum, and is charged during Museum hours only: Tues.-Sun. 10-5, and on select Mon. holidays.

Tufts University Art Gallery, 40 Talbot Avenue, Medford, Tel. 617-627-3518, ase.tufts.edu/gallery.  Tues.-Sun. 11-5; Thurs. 11-8 PM.

Davis Museum and Cultural Center, 106 Central St., Wellesley, Tel. 781-283-2051, www.davismuseum.wellesley.edu.  Tues.-Sat. 11-5; Weds. 11-8 PM; Sun. 12 noon-4; closed Mon.

Worcester Art Museum, 55 Salisbury St., Worcester, Tel. 508-799-4406, worcesterartorg.  The second largest art museum in New England, with a permanent collection that spans 5,000 years and many cultures.  Through November 28, Portrait Photographs, important works by masters from Alfred Stieglitz to Sally Mann, tracing the evolution of the genre, via Worcester’s own holdings.  Weds.-Fri., Sunday 11-5; Sat. 10-5; 3rd Thurs. of every month 11-8 PM; closed Mon.-Tues.

Mead Art Museum, Amherst College, 41 Quadrangle Drive, Amherst, Tel. 413-542-2335, amherst.edu/museums/mead.  Named for alum William Rutherford Mead, of McKim, Mead & White fame (1867), the Mead boasts an impressive American art collection, among many others.  Currently on view: Beyond Ideology: Russian Art of the 1960’s and 1970’s. Tues.-Thurs., Sun. 9-12 midnight; Fri.-Sat. 9-5; closed Mon.

Fine Arts Center at the University of Massachusetts-Amherst, 151 Presidents Drive, Amherst, umass.edu/fac.  Check the website for events, times, ticket prices.

Harvard Art Museums, 485 Broadway, Cambridge, Tel. 617-495-9400, harvardartmuseums.org.  Tues.–Sat. 10–5.

List Center for the Visual Arts (MIT), 20 Ames St., Cambridge, Tel. 617-253-4680, listart.mit.edu/about.  Tues.-Weds. 12 noon-6; Thurs. 12 noon-8 PM; Fri.-Sun. 12 noon-6; closed Mon.

Addison Gallery (Phillips Academy Andover), 180 Main Street, Andover, Tel. 978-749-4000, andover.edu/museums/addison. Tues.-Sat. 10–5; Sun. 1-5; closed Mon.

Smith College Museum of Art, Elm Street at Bedford Terrace Northampton, Tel. 413-585-2760, smith.edu/artmuseum.  Tues.-Sat. 10-4; Sun. 12noon-4; Second Fri. 10-8; closed Mon.

Norman Rockwell Museum, 9 Route 183, Stockbridge, Tel. 413-298-4100, nrm.org.  Through Oct. daily 10-5; Nov.-April daily 10-4; weekends and holidays 10-5.

Connecticut
Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, 600 Main St., Hartford, Tel. 860-838-4161, wadsworthatheneum.org.  Wed.-Fri. 11-5; Sat.-Sun. 10-5; closed Mon.-Tues.

Philip Johnson Glass House, 199 Elm Street, New Canaan, Tel. 203-594-9884, philipjohnsonglasshouse.org.  Call ahead to book a tour, and be sure to visit the website.

Yale University Art Gallery, 1111 Chapel Street (at York Street), New Haven, Tel. 203-432-0600, artgallery.yale.edu.  Tues.–Sat. 10–5; Sun. 1-6; closed Mon.

Yale Center for British Art, 1080 Chapel St., New Haven, Tel. 203-432-2800, ycba.yale.edu.  Tues.-Sat. 10-5; Sun. 12 noon-5; closed Mon.

Rhode Island
Newport Art Museum, 76 Bellevue Ave., Newport, Tel. 401-848-8205, newportartmuseum.org. Tues.-Sat. 10-4; Sun. 12 noon-4; closed Mon.

Rhode Island School of Design Museum, 224 Benefit Street, Providence, Tel. 401-454-6500, risdmuseum.org.  Tues.-Sun. 10-5; closed Mon.

Preservation Society of Newport County, 424 Bellevue Ave., Newport, Tel. 401-847-1000 (for tickets), newportmansions.org.  Check the website for special tours, group tours and events.

Is it possible that Pace Gallery is now a half-century old? They threw their party and cut the cake on September 16th, but the celebration continues through most of October, with special exhibitions at all four Pace locations in New York, plus bonus retrospectives at Pace/McGill (Looking Forward, Looking Back) and Pace Prints. And speaking of looking forward, Pace has embraced the digital age with its very own iPhone app designed to turn your phone into a personal (museum-style) art guide, an idea we expect to see a lot of other galleries pick up on. Happy Birthday to Arne and all of the Glimcher/Pace family and artists. Thank you for 50 years of visionary stewardship!

Another cause for celebration this fall is the revival and restoration of the Louise Nevelson Plaza, located in a triangular piece of land found between Williams Street, Liberty Street and Maiden Lane. Thirty years of neglect and disrepair pretty much obliterated the existence of the plaza, which once featured trees, benches and sculptures placed and/or created by Nevelson. The spot is now modernized and refreshed, with restorers able to bring most of the sculptures back to glorious life. The park is slated to have its official opening some time this month.

News

They’ve landed a big one at New York’s Jewish Museum: namely, a glowing collection of Frank Gehry-designed fish lamps. Created in the mid-80s following a chance accident — the architect dropped a piece of new material he was working on and saw fish scales in the shards — the lit-from-within sculptural works are fantastical, beautiful, and very-Gehry. Hurry to see them — the show closes October 31.

What’s black and white and Lichtenstein all over? A great exhibition that examines the artist’s early drawings! You know the famous Benday-dot work, but unless you’ve been to the Morgan Library & Museum very recently, you may not have seen — at least in such superb breadth — these formal, very sophisticated large-scale, black and white drawings. With 60 known to exist, the curators at the Morgan worked very hard to gather as many as possible, and they’ve come from private collections both here and abroad for Roy Lichtenstein: The Black-and-White Drawings, 1961-1968. (Don’t mistake them for preparatory sketches for his 60s black and white paintings — the drawings were conceived and executed to stand on their own.) They’re fabulous and on display through January 2, along with two additional Lichtenstein exhibitions at Mitchell-Innes Nash and Leo Castelli Gallery — it’s Lichtenstein month in Manhattan!

Tom Colicchio, superstar chef of Craft and ‘wichcraft fame, has taken his talent, along with that of partner Sisha Ortuzar, to a new location, way over in Kips Bay, overlooking the East River (1st Avenue and East 29th). Riverpark, set to open any minute as we go to press, embraces an “easygoing American” menu, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Special features include a private dining room, and a huge outdoor patio. As the Bellevue Hospital cafeteria is the closest culinary rival geographically (Water Club doesn’t count — it’s in Murray Hill), nearby residents should be even more excited than we are — not just over Colicchio’s arrival, but also over the two sleek glass towers by the Hillier Group architects, that announce the new East River Science Park. The first phase of the project, developed by Alexandria Real Estate Equities and christened the Alexandria Center for Life Science, formally opens next week and when complete is set to be one of the world’s most innovative centers for life science and technology.

Another not-to be-missed debut is Lincoln Center’s final iteration of it’s $1.2-billion make over. It was unveiled in September during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and the crowds piled in. Daily tours are now offered for those who want a behind-the-scenes peek at the Diller Scofidio+Renfro architecture plus the classic works by Jasper Johns, Lee Bontecou, Alexander Calder … and more… long highlights of the Lincoln Center experience (call 212-875-5350). And since we are at hand, one of the hot dining experiences at LC is the afore-mentioned ‘wichcraft in the David Rubenstein Atrium. The other is the $20-million, 150-seat Italian restaurant, Lincoln, by chef Jonathan Benno (lately the chef de cuisine at Thomas Keller’s Per Se), sited in the stunning wedge of glass facing the Juilliard School.

While many museums are, for the most part, tightening belts and taking few chances these days, we continue to applaud LACMA director Michael Govan’s innovative efforts to revitalize the venerable institution and to keep things fresh (Robert Irwin as landscape designer, Jorge Pardo — a MacArthur grant winner this week — overseeing installation of the pre-Columbian galleries, etc.). With the unveiling of the much-anticipated “Baby Piano” — Renzo Piano’s eco-friendly Resnick Pavilion — LACMA now has a grand new space for temporary exhibitions. Blessed with a large gift from Lynda and Stewart Resnick, one of the largest open plan, naturally lit museum spaces to date has been created. Premiering the new $53-million building are: Eye for the Sensual: Selections from the Resnick Collection, Olmec: Colossal Masterworks of Ancient Mexico, and Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915. And while you’re at LACMA, may we also recommend: Blinky Palermo: Retrospective 1964-1977, the first comprehensive North American retrospective of this important German artist, whose work is rarely seen in the U.S., plus a visit to Dagny Corcoran at Art Catalogues at LACMA, where fascinating salons and rare books are always at home.

Robert Mnuchin and Dominique Lévy, who joined forces in Manhattan in 2005 just installed a branch of the powerhouse L&M Arts in Venice this fall. Overseers of a cache of treasures by the biggest contemporary art stars you can name, they are sure to receive a warm West-Coast welcome. Kulapat Yantrasast, of wHY Architecture, has added space to a historic 1930s building, while saving lots of room in the garden for outdoor sculpture installations. L&M’s California inaugural exhibition presents the large-scale work of local provocateur Paul McCarthy, with Three Sculptures through November 6.

Turning to L.A. cuisine news, Neal Fraser is taking Grace, one of our long-time favorite dinner spots on Beverly Boulevard — downtown — perhaps to the historic St. Vibiana rectory building at Second and Main. Ambitious plans include serving lunch there as well, plus a formal Sunday brunch; not to worry, Neal’s other Beverly restaurant, BLD, remains as is with chef Diana Stavaridis. Meantime, John Sedlar’s Rivera will open in the old Grace space in October.

Another closing/re-opening is that of Ciudad, which is now history as we put this issue to bed. But fear not, the “too-hot tamales”, i.e. chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger should now be in the kitchen at their new Border Grill Downtown LA by the time you read this. Add to this news the big success of Church and State and the arrival of the 1st & Hope Supper Club, and you know downtown is blooming.

Speaking of across-the-border cuisine, the original Elyse Grinstein-designed Typhoon is now host to the private-dining Pan Am Room, perched high atop the Santa Monica Airport (once occupying this great space was the infamous sushi restaurant The Hump, busted for illegally selling whale meat — good riddance there!). Chef Norman Fierros has created a tasty (whale free) Latin menu highlighted by a variety of ceviches, fresh oysters, empanadas, and more.

Beverly Hills is getting its very own Scarpetta, in the Montage Hotel. Following up his successes in New York City and Miami, chef, author, and cooking-show star Scott Conant will open another version of his popular Italian restaurant, to replace Parq. The menu will feature such signature faves as spaghetti with tomato and basil, and creamy polenta with truffled mushroom fricassee. The design, by Studio Gaia, is meant to evoke old Hollywood, with an al fresco courtyard to boot.

And in Malibu, Paul Shoemaker (former executive chef at Bastide), has opened his own restaurant called Savory. The menu changes daily, as it’s dictated by seasonal, locally grown ingredients, but rotating regulars include such treats as mixed heirloom beets, steamed black mussels, Alaskan halibut with bacon and spinach, and Jidori chicken. Also in Malibu, find Café Habana in the Malibu Lumber Yard complex. It’s a solar-powered version of its sister café in New York City, and fits in well with the Lumber Yard’s eco-vibe. The cuisine is Cuban-inspired, and the grilled corn is to die for.

The newly reopened and redesigned Santa Monica Place has plenty of new restaurants, and so far, we’ve only had time to sample uber chef Richard Sandoval’s Zengo, but what a huge treat that was. Although Asian/Mexican (we should say Latin) fusion sounds ridiculous on the face of it, the flavors are a divine mix. We had Thai Chicken Empanadas; Grilled Achiote Salmon with sauteed mushrooms, bacon and achiote ponzu; and Mexican Chocolate Tart with cocoa nibs, cinnamon whipped cream and chili ancho anglaise. Amazing!

Finally, now that you are full of foodie delights, down the 405 a bit in Newport Beach, don’t miss the California Biennial at the Orange County Museum of Art. Always lively and a remarkable predictor of what’s to come, the 2010 version is curated by the gifted Sarah Bancroft, and the October 24-March 13 new-talent fiesta should be on your list. More than 40 artists will present works on paper, film and video, installation, painting, performance, dance, photography, new media….. and more.

Great Addresses

In New York
The Pace Gallery, 32 East 57th Street, Tel. 212-421-3292, thepacegallery.com.  50 Years at Pace: Highlights from 50 Years of Thematic and Historical Exhibitions, through October 23;  534 West 25th Street, 50 Years at Pace: The Abstract Expressionist and Pop Art Years, through October 23; 545 East 22nd Street, 50 Years at Pace: Minimalist, Conceptual and Post-Modern Art, through October 23; 510 West 25th Street, 50 Years at Pace: Art in the 21st Century, through October 16.

Pace Prints, 32 East 57th Street, Tel. 212-421-3237, paceprints.com.  Louise Nevelson: Prints and Multiples 1953-1983, through October 23.[pay]

Pace MacGill, 32 East 57th Street, Tel. 212-759-7999, pacemacgill.com.  Looking Forward, Looking Back: An Exhibition to Honor 50 Years at The Pace Gallery, through October 23.

Louise Nevelson Plaza, bound by Williams Street, Liberty Street and Maiden Lane (the site of the former building known as 1 Liberty Street).

The Jewish Museum, 1109 Fifth Avenue, Tel. 212-423-3200, thejewishmuseum.org.  Fish Forms: Lamps by Frank Gehry, through October 31.

The Morgan Library & Museum, 225 Madison Avenue at 36th Street, Tel. 212-685-0008, themorgan.org.  Roy Lichtenstein: The Black-and-White Drawings, 1961-1968, through January 2.

Riverpark, A Tom Colicchio Restaurant, 450 East 29th Street, Tel. 212-729-9790, info@riverparknyc.com.

‘wichcraft, Lincoln Center, 61 West 62nd Street at Broadway (and 13 other Manhattan locations), Tel. 212- 780-0577, wichcraftnyc.com; also San Francisco and Las Vegas.  ‘wichcraft is the stop for yummy sandwiches, soups and sides, salads, hot/cold drinks and desserts — the best quick bite.

In Los Angeles
Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Tel. 323-857-6000, lacma.org. Visit Dagny Corcoran at Art Catalogues at LACMA to fill every vacancy in your art bookshelf.  Rare books and catalogues are her specialty and you can trust her to find just what you’re searching for.  Ask to be placed on the mailing list for intimate talks and salons.

L&M Arts, 660 Venice Blvd., Tel. 310-821-6400, lmgallery.com.  Following the Paul McCarthy debut exhibition, don’t miss Willem de Kooning: Figure & Light, November 12-January 15.

Border Grill Downtown Los Angeles, 445 South Figueroa Street, Tel. 213-486-5171.  Set to re-open as we go to press.

Typhoon/Pan Am Room, 3221 Donald Douglas Loop South, 2nd floor (Santa Monica Airport), Tel. 310-390-6565, typhoon.biz.  The Pan Am Room remained open while Typhoon enjoyed some minor remodeling in September.  Now both are ready to welcome you.  Sitting atop Typhoon, the Pan Am Room overlooks the tarmac and features tasty Latin dishes from Brazil and Argentina to Guatemala and Mexico.  Fine wines and the most exciting ceviche dishes offered north of the border round out the adventuresome menu.  Open Monday-Saturday at 6 PM.  Reservations are recommended.

Scarpetta Beverly Hills, at the Montage, 225 North Canon Drive, Tel. 310-860-7800, montagebeverlyhills.com. Acclaimed chef Scott Conant is eagerly awaited; the opening is scheduled for October.

Savory Restaurant, 29169 Heathercliff Road, Malibu (Point Dume Village), Tel. 310-589-8997, savorymalibu.com.  Savory features “locally sourced” delicacies “for the Malibu community,” but you’re invited to share the pleasures of chef Shoemaker’s small, market-driven adventure.

Zengo Santa Monica, 395 Santa Monica Place, 3rd floor, Tel. 310-899-1000, richardsandoval.com/zengosm.  Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon.-Sun. 5 PM to close; happy hour Mon.-Fri. 4 PM to 7 PM.  This covers the website hours; we just had a marvelous lunch there recently, so check out the schedule before you go.

Orange County Museum of Art, 850 San Clement Drive (Newport Center), Tel. 949-759-1122, ocma.net.  2010 California Biennial, October 24-March 13.  Mon.-Tues. closed; Wed.-Sun. 11-5; Thurs. 11-8.

Travel Bookshelf: New England

Guides
Traute M. Marshall. Art Museums PLUS: Cultural Excursions in New England, 2009.
Frommer’s 23 Great Drives in New England (Best Loved Driving Tours), 2009.
Fodor’s New England, 2008.

History & Literature
Deborah Davis. Gilded: How Newport Became America’s Richest Resort, 2009.
John Cheever. The Wapshot Chronicle (his debut novel set in New England), 1958.
Emily Dickinson. The Complete Poems of Emily Dickinson.
George Monteiro. Robert Frost & The New England Renaissance, 1988. (Explores Frost’s roots to Dickinson, Thoreau and Emerson.)

Art & Architecture
Brian Kennedy and Emily Burke. Modern and Contemporary Art at Dartmouth: Highlights from the Hood Museum of Art, 2009.
Elizabeth Mankin Kornhauser. American Moderns on Paper: Masterworks from the Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, 2010.
Patricia McDonell. Marsden Hartley: American Modern, 2007.
Janie Cohen. Architectural Improvisation: A history of Vermont’s Design/build Movement 1964-1977, 2009.
Patricia Vigderman. The Memory Palace of Isabella Stewart Gardener, 2007.
Roderic H. Blackburn. Great Houses of New England, 2008.
Annie Robinson. Peabody & Stearns: Country Houses and Seaside Cottages, 2010.
Bryant F. Tolles. Summer by the Seaside: The Architecture of New England Coastal Resort Hotels, 1820-1950, 2008.
John M. Bryan. Maine Cottages: Fred L. Savage and the Architecture of Mount Desert, 2005.

and, strictly for fun….
Mysteries and Cuisine
Ulrich Boser. The Gardner Heist: The True Story of the World’s Largest Unsolved Art Theft, 2009.
E. Michaud. A Master Class: Sensational Recipes from the Chefs of the New England Culinary Institute, 2008.
Skye Alexander, ed. Undertow: Crime Stories by New England Writers, 2003.
Mark Mills. Amagansett, 2004.
Nicholas Kilmer. The mystery series starring a secretive Beacon Hill art collector and his assistant by Kilmer, a Cambridge artist, art dealer and poet, is funny and quirky. Start with Harmony in Flesh and Black, 1995. (The author is also the grandson of both poet Joyce Kilmer, and painter Frederick Frieseke.)

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Calendar

Through Oct. 17 MACRO, Rome Luca Trevisani
Through Oct. 23 Pace Gallery, New York 50 Years at Pace
Through Oct. 24 Smith College Museum of Art, Northampton, MA Luscious: Paintings by Emily Eveleth
Through Oct. 31 Colby College Museum of Art, ME Will Barnett: New York Drawings & Prints, the 1930s
Through Oct. 31 Whitechapel, London Alice Neel
Through Nov. 1 Dia: Beacon Sol LeWitt Drawing Series
Through Nov. 1 MOMA, New York The Original Copy: Photography of Sculpture, 1839-Today
Through Nov. 7 MAXXI, Rome Gino de Dominicis
Through Nov. 11 Palazzo Grassi, Venice Paintings and Sculpture from the Pinault Collection
Through Nov. 14 Tufts University Art Gallery, Medford, MA Renovating Walden
Through Nov. 21 12th Architecture Biennale, Venice
Through Nov. 21 Museum Kunst Palast, Düsseldorf Nam June Paik
Through Nov. 28 Whitney Museum, New York Lee Friedlander: America by Car
Through Nov. 28 Worcester Art Museum Portrait Photographs
Through Dec. 12 Château Versaille, Paris Takashi Murakami
Through Dec. 12 29th São Paulo Bienal
Through Dec. 18 Fleming Museum, Burlington, VT Christo & Jeanne-Claude: The Tom Golden Collection
Through Dec. 31 Farnsworth Art Museum, Rockland, ME Louise Nevelson
Through Jan. 2 Morgan Library, New York Roy Lichtenstein: The Black and White Drawings 1961-1968
Through Jan. 2 AGO, Toronto Julian Schnabel: Art and Film
Through Jan. 2 The Aldrich Museum, Ridgefield, CT Rackstraw Downes: Under the Westside Highway
Through Jan. 2 Contemporary Art Museum, St. Louis Richard Artschwager: Hair
Through Jan. 2 Site Santa Fe The Dissolve: 8th International Biennial
Through Jan. 2 Yale Center British Art, New HavenThe Independent Eye: Contemporary British Art
Through Jan. 2 Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth Vernon Fisher: K-Mart Conceptualism
Through Jan. 2 MASS MoCA, North Adams Leonard Nimoy: Secret Selves
Through Jan. 9 Peggy Guggenheim Museum, Venice Adolph Gottlieb
Through Jan. 9 Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art, Hartford, CT Pepón Osorio
Through Jan. 9 Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art, Providence Lynda Benglis
Through Jan. 9 Museum für Modern Kunst, Frankfurt Not in Fashion: Fashion & Photography in the 90s
Through Jan. 9 Louisiana Museum, Humlebaek, Denmark Anselm Kiefer
Through Jan. 16 Walker Art Center, Minneapolis Alec Soth’s America
Through Jan. 16 SFMOMA, San Francisco The Anniversary Show
Through Jan. 17 ICA, Boston 2010 James & Audrey Foster Prize Award Exhibition
Through Jan. 24 MOCA, Los Angeles/Geffen Contemporary The Artists’ Museum
Through Feb. 6 Jeu de Paume, Paris André Kertész
Through Feb. 6 Nasher Museum of Art at Duke University The Record: Contemporary Art & Vinyl
Through Mar. 13 Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College, NH Frank Stella: Irregular Polygons
Through Apr. 12 Kunsthaus Bregenz Antony Gormley Horizon Field
Through June 19 MFA, Boston Scaasi: American Couturier
Oct. 1 - Jan.   9 Guggenheim Museum, New York Chaos/Classicism: France, Italy, Germany 1918-1936
Oct. 2 - Jan.   9 LACMA, Los Angeles Eye for the Sensual: The Resnick Collection
Oct. 3 - Dec.  12 Art Institute and Renaissance Society, Chicago Rebecca Warren
Oct. 5 - Mar.  6 Davis Museum, Wellesley Fred Sandback
Oct. 6 - Jan.   9 New Museum, New York The Last Newspaper
Oct. 8 - Jan.   17 Seattle Art Museum Picasso: Masterpieces from the Musée National Picasso, Paris
Oct. 8 - Jan.   30 Kunsthalle Wein Bruce Conner: The 70ies
Oct. 9 - Jan.   2 Witt de With, Rotterdam Cosima von Bonin
Oct. 9 - Jan.   9  Manifesta 8: European Biennial Contemporary Art, Murcia and Cartagena, Spain
Oct. 9 - Jan.   23 MCA, La Jolla Kim MacConnel
Oct. 9 - Feb.  13 Worcester Art Museum, MA Place as Idea
Oct. 10 - Jan. 2 Indianapolis Museum of Art Andy Warhol Enterprises
Oct. 13 - Jan. 9 Tate Modern, London Gauguin: Maker of Myth
Oct. 13 - Jan. 16 National Gallery, London Venice: Canaletto and His Rivals
Oct. 14 - 17 Frieze Art Fair, London
Oct. 14 - Jan. 2 Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, CT James Stirling
Oct. 21– 24 FIAC Paris, Grand Palais & Louvre
Oct. 21 - Jan. 9 Whitney Museum, New York Paul Thek: Diver, A Retrospective
Oct. 21 - Jan. 16 Bowdoin College Museum of Art, ME Sit Down! Chairs from Six Centuries
Oct. 22 - Jan. 2 List MIT Visual Arts Center, Cambridge Frances Stark
Oct. 22 - Jan. 30 Menil Collection, Houston Kurt Schwitters: Color and Collage
Oct. 24 - Mar. 13 Orange County Museum of Art, Newport Beach 2010 California Biennial
Oct. 28 - Nov. 1 Art Toronto 2010 (The 11th Toronto International Art Fair)

Oct. 28 - Apr. 10 Whitney Museum, New York Modern Life: Edward Hopper and His Time
Oct. 30 - Jan. 2 Portland Museum of Art, ME False Documents and Other Illusions
Oct. 31 - Jan. 16 LACMA, Los Angeles Blinky Palermo: Retrospective
Nov. 2 - Jan. 16 Philadelphia Museum of Art Michelangelo Pistoletto
Nov. 5 - Feb. 11 Addison Gallery of American Art, Andover Sheila Hicks: 50 Years
Nov. 5 – 7 SOFA Chicago (International Sculpture Objects & Functional Art Fair)
Nov. 5 - 7 Artissima No. 17, Torino (International Fair of Contemporary Art)

Nov. 13 - Jan. 9 Newport Art Museum, RI Kim Salerno: Big Miniatures
Nov. 19 - Feb. 20 Menil Collection, Houston Vija Celmins: Televisions and Disaster 1964-1968
Dec. 1 - Mar. 21 Centre Pompidou, Paris Mondrian in Paris: 1912-1938
Dec. 1 - 5 Art Basel Miami Beach
Dec. 2 - 5 NADA Art Fair Miami Beach 2010

Dec. 6 - Feb. 27 MOCA, Los Angeles/Geffen Suprasensorial: Experiments in Light, Color and Space
Dec. 22 - Sept. 30 MASS MoCA, North Adams Katharina Grosse


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